Shamrock Rose

Crochet Antique Bag Free Crochet Pattern

MATERIALS

1 large skein Perle Cotton No. 5

Steel Crochet hook No. 2½/2.00mm/US 4

Crochet hook No. 7/.75mm/US 14

British English terms used:

s.c. = single crochet

d.c. = double crochet

PATTERN

Using the steel hook * chain 12 and join in a ring, repeat twice from *to form the foundation for the shamrock.

In the first ring made now put 1 s. c., 25 d. c., 1 s. c. and repeat in each ring.

Second round: beginning again with the first ring, make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around the three leaves of the shamrock. Fasten off and draw the centre of shamrock up with the end of thread.

First picot round: make 1 s. c. in the sixth stitch of one of the leaves, chain 7, catch back in second chain to form picot, chain 8, catch back in third chain to form another picot, chain 2, thus forming one set of picots, skip 4 stitches on leaf, catch with s. c. in next stitch. Make another set of picots, as directed, skip 4 stitches and catch down with s. c. Continue in this way making a set of picots and catching down until 4 s. c. stitches have been caught down in each of the first two leaves. On the third leaf of the shamrock fewer stitches must be skipped, so that an extra set of picots can be made and caught down, five times in all.

Second picot round: 1 set of picots, catch in centre between the 2 picots of preceding round, chain 8 snugly, catch in next centre, turn the work and in the chain 8 just made, make 16 s. c., chain 3 and turn, 15 d. c. 011 the 16 s. c. just made, chain 3 and catch down in same space. * 1 set of picots, catch in centre between next two picots, 1 set of picots, catch in next centre, chain 8 snugly, catch in next centre, turn, 16 s. c., chain 3 and turn, 15 d. c., chain 3, catch down as before and repeat from * twice.

Third round: 1 set of picots, catch in centre between the 2 picots of preceding round and continue as the twelfth round was made, excepting that the picots are caught in the third, middle and thirteenth stitches of petals. (Three times.)

Repeat the second and third rounds until there are four petals in each corner. There will be more picots between the petals on each round.

Fasten off.

This completes the back of the bag.

The front of the bag consists of four motifs joined together. Make two of them with the shamrock in the centre, following the directions given for the back of bag, up to and including third round of picots; then fasten off.

Rose motif: chain 6 and join in a ring.

Second round: chain 5. * 1 d. c. in the ring. ch. 2 and repeat from * 4 times: join to third chain of the chain 5 at beginning of the round, with a slip stitch, thus forming six spaces.

Third round: turn, 1 s. c., 4 d. c., 1 s. c., all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, chain 3, turn work and catch around first spoke of second round with a slip stitch.

Fourth round: chain 5, catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn.

Fifth round: 1 s. c., 8 d. c., 1 s. c., in first space and repeat all around, chain 3 and turn.

Sixth round: catch around first spoke of fourth round with a slip stitch, chain 7 and catch around next spoke and repeat all around, turn work.

Seventh round: 1 s. c., 12 d. c., 1 s. c. in each space all around.

Eighth round: make sets of picots as before, catching in fourth and tenth stitches of each petal of rose.

Next make two rounds as directed for the second and third picot rounds of shamrock motif and fasten off.

Join the motifs with a single row of picots caught alternately in the centres of picots of the two motifs.

Join the front and back of bag in same manner.

Border around the top.

First round: make 1 s. c. in centre of some picot space, * chain 6 and catch in centre of next space with 1 s. c. and repeat from * all around.

Join.

The ribbon holes are next to be made; chain 5, * 1 d. c., chain 2, skip 2 chains and repeat all around.

Make another round of ribbon holes, putting the d. c. in the spaces of proceeding round.

Then a round of picots caught down in alternate spaces. Fasten off.

Then make a round as the first round of top was made, working from the wrong side.

Turn: make 7 s. c. in chain just made, 1 s. c. in s. c. and repeat all around.

Turn; chain 8 and catch down in the s. c. of previous round and repeat all around.

Turn: * 5 s. c. in chain just made, chain 3 and catch back to form picot, 5 s. c. in chain, 1 s. c. in s. c. and repeat from * all around.

Balls: chain 4 and join in a ring. Make 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join, as the balls are worked around and around, both threads of the stitch being taken up.

Next round: put 2 s. c. in each stitch of proceeding round.

Make four more rounds of 16 s. c., then two rounds skipping every third stitch on each round.

Fill with cotton and make a final round skipping every other stitch.

Draw up with 1 s. c., chain 10 and fasten off.

Make seventeen more balls in same manner. Fasten two balls on each corner of bag, two in centre of lower edge, two in centre of each rose and two on each of the slip balls on Cordelier. Join then into pairs by catching the third stitch of the chain of second ball through the chain of the first ball, then finish chain and fasten off.

Make Cordelier as follows: make a chain five yards long, or longer if an extra length Cordeliere is desired. Turn, skip the chain next to the needle and make 1 s. c. in each succeeding chain until the work measures 16 inches; then, without breaking thread, make another chain, long enough to reach within 16 in. of the beginning of the first chain made.

Make 1 s. c. in each chain to the end, thus forming two ends to be run through the ribbon holes, with two long chains between.

Now, with No. 7 needle, crochet a chain beginning at the end of one s. c. strip and ending at the other s. c. strip, using the two lengths of chain as one thread.

Slip balls: chain 6 and join in a ring. 10 s. c. in the ring.

Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch.

Make five more rounds of 20 s. c., followed by 2 rounds skipping every third stitch.

Fasten off, but leave a long end of thread.

Slip ball on Cordeliere, and after running the end of cord through the ribbon holes and fastening it firmly, slip ball over the joining, fill with cotton wool and draw up the thread left.

Fasten the two balls to the slip ball.

Silver Feefee Christmas Lace

Free Vintage Knitting Pattern

Twinkling vintage lace for your tree faery or garland.

 

 

 

 

 

Materials

Fine silver yarn
Knitting needles to correspond



Pattern

Cast on 11 stitches.

First row: Slip 1, pass two stitches over first stitch on left-hand needle, knit 3, yarn over needle twice, knit 5.

Second row: knit 1 purl 1  knit 1 all into first stitch, *pass two stitches over first stitch on left-hand needle, knit 3, yarn over needle twice, knit 5.*

Third row: As first row except knit 7 at the last.

Fourth row: knit two together, cast off one, * to * as in second row.

Repeat 4 rows for pattern to required length. Cast off.

Marybell Hanger

Marybell Hanger

Free Vintage Knitting Pattern

Christmas tree or wall hanging

 

 

MATERIALS

3ozs 100% wool 8ply/DK  in Cream with soft, fluffy finish (a fine strand of mohair can be knit along with this for added appeal as a Christmas hanging doll)

2 skeins pearl embroidery

Knitting needles UK 9/US 5/Metric 3.75mm

Woolydown for filling (soft wool)

Cotton, a firm weave fabric for body in cream (see instructions)

Face 2 ½ inches, purchased or made from pure wool felt (glass eyes and painted mouth give a sparkling look to a hanging doll). Shape wet felt over a plastic doll face. When dry and stuffed it will fill out,

6 golden jingle bells

¼ yard narrow elastic (for hanging)

Small plastic ring (for hanging)

Wire brush

SUGGESTED YARN

IceYarns Silk Merino DK Cream 35% Silk 65% Merino Wool. Shown in Cream

 

THE COAT

Always knit into back of each cast on stitch, also in to first and last stitch of every row.

Commence at lower edge of front, casting on 36 stitches.

Knit 4 rows garter-stitch.

Knit 28 rows stocking stitch.

33rd row: Cast on 15, knit to end.

34th row: Cast on 15, purl to end (66 stitches).

Knit 10 rows stocking-stitch.

45th row: Cast on 7, knit to end.

46th row: Cast on 7, purl to end (80 stitches).

Knit 2 rows stocking-stitch.

49th row: Knit 33. Slip these on to a piece of wool for left shoulder. Cast on 14, knit 33.

50th row: Purl.

Knit 2 rows stocking-stitch. Slip these stitches on to a piece of wool. Return to left shoulder, transfer stitches from wool to needle, point towards neck. Join on wool.

50th row: Purl

Knit 2 rows stocking-stitch.

53rd row: Knit 33. Cast on 14. Slip stitches from wool to free needle, knit 33. (80 stitches)

54th row: Purl

55th row: Cast off 7, knit to end

56th row Cast off 7, purl to end. (66 stitches)

Knit 10 rows stocking web.

67th row: Cast off 15, knit to end

68th row: Cast off 15. purl to end (36 stitches)

Knit 28 rows stocking stitch.

Knit 4 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

THE LEGS

(back and front alike)

Commence at top, casting 24 stitches.

Knit 16 rows stocking stitches.

17th row: Knit 12. Slip these stitches on to a piece of wool, k 12

18th row Purl

Knit 28 rows stocking stitch.

* 47th row: K2 tog, knit until 2 remain. k2 together

48th row: Purl

49th row: Knit

50th row: K2 together, purl until 2 remain, k2 together

Knit 2 rows stocking stitch. Repeat front * once (4 stitches)

59th row: K2 tog., k2 together. Fasten off.

THE HAT

Commence at neck edge, casting on 30 stitches.

Knit 10 rows stocking stitch.

11th row: K.1, k2 into next stitch, knit until 2 remain, k2 into next stitch, k1

12th row: Purl

Knit 4 rows stocking stitch.

Repeat last 6 rows twice (36 stitches)

* 29th row: K1, k2 tog., knit until 3 remain, k2 tog., k1

30th row: Purl

31st row: Knit

32nd row: K1, p2 tog., purl until 3 remain, p2 tog., k1. Knit 2 rows stocking stitch. Repeat from * once, then repeat from 29th to 32nd row inclusive

45th row: Knit

46th row: K1, P2 together. * P 5 *2 together. Repeat from * twice (20 stitches) Cast off.

TO MAKE UP

Pin out each piece and press on wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron. Brush each piece well on right side. Sew up side and leg seams Stuff lower part of each leg with wooly­down for about 2 inches and catch down to form feet and sew a tiny bell to each point.

MAKE THE BODY

Cut 2 pieces of material 6 ½ inches in length, 4 ½ inches wide at lower edge and shape off to 3 ½ inches at top. Join up sides and lower edge also about ½ an inch each side at top, then stuff very tightly with woolydown. Place the top part of legs over the lower part of body and sew, then catch along the top of each leg.

Sew up under-arm, sleeve and hand seams Stuff each little hand­piece, then catch round top to form wrist.

Using pearl embroidery work blanket-stitch round lower edge and neck. Sew a tiny bell to point of each sleeve.

Place the coat over the body then fix head in position and sew firmly. Fold down the decreased edge of hat and sew each side for 2 ½ inches. Using embroidery thread work blanket stitch round neck and face. Stuff each point and top of hat with woolydown then place in position on head and sew round neck and face. Sew a bell to each point of hat. Sew a piece of elastic with the bone ring to lop of hat.

Play for Points, Cash, Giftcards

 

Arine Baby Cape

Arine Grand Spanish Vintage Baby Cape

 

 

MATERIALS

3 ozs 2ply wool

Knitting needles UK 14/US 0/Metric 2.00mm

Four yards of ¼ inch wide ribbon

SUGGESTED YARN

KnitPicks Palette Yarn 100% wool. Shown in Pimento

Pimento is a deep, rich red color. Named after the Cherry Pepper, Pimento is similar to a bold Tuscan red tone that is warm and earthy.

 

TENSION

10 stitches and 12 rows to one square inch on No. 14 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

LEFT FRONT

Using the two needle method (cable), cast on 41 sts.

1st row: K

2nd row: K1, P. to last stitch, K1

3rd to 6th rows: Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice

7th row: K1, * wool forward, K.2tog., repeat from * to end

8th row: As 2nd row

9th row: K

10th and 11th rows: As 8th and 9th

12th row: As 2nd row

13th row: Make hem by knitting together one stitch from needle and one loop from cast-on edge all across row

Proceed in Ridge Pattern as follows:

1st row: K

2nd row: K1, P7, * w.r.n., P2 tog., P10 repeat from * to last 9 sts., w.r.n., P2 tog., P6, K1

3rd row: K

4th row: K2, * Pl, K11, rep. from * to last 3 sts., P1, K2

5th row: K1, P1, * K1, P11, rep. from * to last 3 sts., K1, P1, K1

6th row: As 4th row

These 6 rows form the pattern.

Repeat rows 1 to 6 inclusive 12 times, then rows 1 to 5 inclusive once.

Slip stitches on to a length of wool and leave.

RIGHT FRONT

Work as for Left Front, working 1 row more before slipping stitches on to length of wool.

MAIN PART

Cast on 299 stitches.

Proceed in lace pattern as follows:

1st row: * K3, K2 tog., w.fwd., K1, w.fwd., sl.1, K1, pass slipped stitch over, rep. from * to last 3 sts. K3

2nd and every alternate row: K1, P. to last stitch, K1

3rd row: K2, * K2 tog., w.fwd., K3, w.fwd., slip 1, K1, p.s.s.o., K1, rep. from * to last stitch, K1

5th row: K1, K2 tog., * w.fwd., K5, w.fwd., sl.1, K2 tog., p.s.s.o., rep. from * to last 8 sts., w.fwd., K5, w.fwd., sl.1, K.l, p.s.s.o., K1

6th row: As 2nd row

These 6 rows form the pattern.

Repeat rows 1 to 6 inclusive 11 times more.

With right side of work facing, slip stitches from Right Front on to right-hand needle.

Using same needle work across Main part as follows:

(K3 tog.) twice, * (K2 tog.) twice, K3 tog., rep. from * to last 6 sts., (K3 tog.) twice, slip sts. from Left Front on to left-hand needle and work across these sts. as follows:

K2, * P1, K1, repeat from * to last 3 sts., P1, K2 (209 sitches).

Proceed for Yoke as follows:

1st to 6th rows: As rows 1 to 6 inclusive of Ridge Pattern on Left Front

7th row: K

8th row: K1, P6, * P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P8, rep. from * to last 10 sts., P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P5, 1l (192 stitches)

9th row: K

10th row: K2, * P1, K10, rep. from * to last 3 sts., P1, K2

11th row: K1, P1, * K1, P10, rep. from * to last 3 sts., K1, P1, K1

12th row: As 10th row

13th row: K

14th row: K1, P5, * P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P7, rep. from * to last 10 sts., P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P5, K1 (175 stitches)

15th row: K

16th row: K2, * P1, K9, rep. from * to last 3 sts., P1, K2

17th row: K1, P1, * K1, P9, rep. from * to last 3 sts., K1, P1, K1

18th row: As 16th row

19th row: K

20th row: K1, P5, * P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P6, rep. from * to last 9 sts., P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P4, K1 (158 stitches)

21st row: K

22nd row: K2, * P1, K8, rep. from to last 3 sts., P1, K2

23rd row: K1, P1, * K1, P8 rep. from * to last 3 sts., K1, P1, K1

24th row: As 22nd

25th row: K

26th row K1, P4, * P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P5, rep. from * to last 9 sts., P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P4, K1 (141 stitches)

27th row: K

28th row: K2, * P1, K7, rep. from * to last 3 sts., P1, K2

29th row: K1, P1, * K1, P7, rep. from * to last 3 sts., K1, P1, K1

30th row: As 28th

31st row: K

32nd row: K1, P4, * P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P4. rep. from * to last 8 sts., P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog.. P3, K1 (124 stitches)

33rd row: K

34th row: K2, * P1, K6, rep. from * to last 3 sts., P1, K2

35th row: K1, P1, * K1, P6, rep. from * to last 3 sts., K1, P1, K1

36th row: As 34th row

37th row: K

38th row: K1, P3, * P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P3, rep. from * to last 8 sts., P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P3, K1 (107 stitches)

39th row: K

40th row: K2, * P1, K5, rep. from * to last 3 sts., P1, K2

41st row: K1, P1, * K1, P5, rep. from * to last 3 sts., K1, P1, K1

42nd row: As 40th row

43rd row: K

44th row: K1, P3, * P2 tog., w.r.n., P2 tog., P2, rep. from * to last st., 1l (90 stitches)

45th row: K

Work Neckband as follows:

Work rows 1 to 11 inclusive at commencement of Left Front.

Cast off.

BORDER

Cast on 10 stitches.

1st row: K

2nd row: K1, P. to last stitch, K1

3rd and 4th rows: K

5th row: As 2nd row

6th row: K

Repeat rows 1 to 6 inclusive until work mea­sures 53 inches from beginning.

Next row: Cast off 7 stitches, slip next stitch off needle and run down length of work to form lacy edge. Cast off 2 remaining stitches.

TO MAKE UP

Press very lightly on wrong side using a warm iron and damp cloth. Fold over neckband at row of holes and stitch down on wrong side to form picot hem. Using a flat seam join border to main part stitching along lower edge and sides, easing in fullness at corners. Stitch along ends of border on right side of work where they overlap Fronts. Stitch over­laps for 1 inch from lower edge of Fronts on wrong side of work, thus forming slots for arms. Thread ribbon through rows of holes on yoke and Fronts and through hem at neck.

 

Spanish Baby Cape

Spanish Baby Cape Free Knitting Pattern

 

MATERIALS

2 ozs of 2ply wool in Light Colour and 2 ozs in Medium Colour

Knitting needles UK 10/US 3/Metric 3.25 mm

Satin ribbon 1 inch/2.50mm wide

SUGGESTED YARN

Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace 100% Merino Wool, Lace 2 Ply. Shown in Coral

TENSION

8 stitches and 10 rows to one square inch on No. 10 needles

CENTRE

Using Light, cast on 4 stitches.

1st and 2nd rows: Knit

3rd row: K2, w.fwd, K2

4th and every alt. row: Knit

5th row: K2, w.fwd, K1, w.fwd, K2

7th row: K2, w.fwd, K3. w.fwd, K2

Continue in this manner until the row “K2, w.fwd, K143, w.fwd, K2” has been worked.

Next row: Knit

Change to Medium Colour and proceed as follows:

1st row: K2, w.fwd, K3 tog. through back of loop, K139, K3 tog., w.fwd, K2

2nd and every alt. row: Knit

3rd row: K2, w.fwd, K3 tog. through back of loop, K137, K3 tog., w.fwd, K2

5th row: K2, w.fwd, K3 tog. through back of loop, K135, K3 tog., w.fwd, K2

Continue in this manner until the row “K2, w.fwd, K3 tog. through back loop, K1, K3 tog., w.fwd, K2 has been worked

Next row: K

Next row: K2, w.fwd, K5tog. through back loop, w.fwd, K2

Next row: K

Next row: K1, K2 tog., w.fwd, K3 tog. K1

21st row: K4, (w.fwd, K2 tog.) 3 times, K3, K2 tog. (w.fwd, K2 tog.) 4 times, K1

22nd row: K8, P5, K10

23rd row: K5, (w.fwd., K2tog.) 3 times, K3, K2 tog. (w.fwd. K2 tog.) 3 times, K1

24th row: K6, P5, K11

25th row: K4, (w.fwd., K2tog.) 4 times, K3, (K2 tog., w.fwd) twice, K2 tog., K1

26th row: K4, P5, K12

27th row: K4, P5, K12

27th row: K5, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 4 times, K3, K2 tog., w.fwd., K2 tog., K1

28th row: K4, P5, K11

Work rows 1 to 28 incl. 16 times more.

Next row: K

Next row: K1, K2 tog., K1 (4 sts.)

Cast off.

BORDERS

Using Light Colour, cast on 20 stitches.

Knit 1 row

Proceed in lace pattern as follows:

LACE PATTERN

1st row: K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 4 times, K4, w.fwd., K2 tog., w.fwd., K2

2nd row: K6, P5, K10

3rd row: K5, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 3 times, K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) twice, w.fwd., K2

4th row: K8, P5, K9

5th row: K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 3 times, K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 3 times, w.fwd., K2

6th row: K10, P5, K8

7th row: K5, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) twice, K4, (w.fwd., K2tog.) 4 times, w.fwd., K2

8th row: K12, P5, K7

9th row: K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) twice, K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 5 times. W.fwd., K2

10th row: K14, P5, K6

11th row: K5, w.fwd., K2 tog. K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 6 times, w.fwd., K2

12th row: K16, P5, K5

13th row: K4, w.fwd., K2og., K4, (w.fwd. K2 tog.) 7 times, w.fwd., K2

14th row: K16, P5, P6

15th row: K5, w.fwd., K2 tog., K3, K2 tog., (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 7 times, K1

16th row: K14, P5, K7

17th row: K4, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) twice, K3, K2 tog., (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 6 times, K1

18th row: K12, P5, K8

19th row: K5, (w.fwd., K2 tog.) twice, K3, K2 tog., (w.fwd., K2 tog.) 5 times, K1

20th row: K10, P5, K9

Cast off. Work another Border in Medium Colour.

TO MAKE UP

Block each piece by pinning out round edges. Press each piece very lightly usung a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a flat seam join scalloped edges of Borders. Fold centre piece in half through colour division and stitch Border pieces on to matching half of centre, easing in fullness at point. Join ends of Border. Catch stitch double edges of centre inside faggot stitched Border. Tie ribbon through faggot stitched Border at ends of wrap half an inch from edge.